Day 9 in Masai land

The Tail of an Elephant

Day 9

            Today we travel to Tanzania, it is not an all day trip; well, we hope it is not an all day trip, this depends on when the driver gets here, our good friend. He is actually a real nice guy he just needs some new tires, that all. And if he would just show up on time, then he would be like perfect!

            Late evening was just great. The road up to Pastor James’s place was rough, I have been actually been doing most of the driving going here and there, that is once the car is here. James lives way up in the hills, the road just kept climbing, then we got to where there were no roads but we kept going. Finally, we arrived. The family all came out to greet us with smiles. After a little tour of his place we were offered a cup of chai. Soon the dinner came out and we all enjoyed an evening of laughter. We talked of Masai life and some of the difficulties that pastors work though here in Masai land.

            Before we got up to leave, some gifts were brought out from the back room, some nice Masai shirts and bead necklaces. We all stood and prayed together then down the hill we drove finding our way in the dark night.

            In the darkness Pastor Musa tells us that they are planning a ministry school the first week of December this year and asked that I come back and teach for the week, last year there were just over 600 pastors and church leaders and they say this year there will be more. The great news for me was not so much the invitation but they said that they would pay for $200 of my ticket. Now that was so great for me, not the money in itself; but the fact that they would invest. I had been talking about that this whole week - about becoming investors. My heart is pleased.

            So I will be travelling back to Masai land to be a part of that week. I still do need about $500 balance for the ticket, anyone interested in investing? Anyone want to come with me?

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            The driver shows up and we are off. We say our goodbyes to Pastor Musa’s family, who are inviting us back again. We are now off to Tanzania, Mark is excited about going home, Pastor Musa and James decided that they would like to accompany us. So we all drive off, this is only supposed to be like a three hour trip. Well, it turned out to be a 8 hour trip. One more flat tire in the first hour. We then stopped at the next village, to fix the tire and get some diesel. We did not get far down the road and we got yet another flat. With no spare we had to take the whole tire a part there on the side of the road and patch it. An hour later we all got in the car but now the car would not start. The sun was on its way down.

            I am not a mechanic and neither is Dr. Rick, he is a dentist, remember. Well Dr. Rick is getting a little nervous because we are in the middle of nowhere and sleeping in this car is now looking like a real possibility. Dr. Rick was good, he did not complain; for me, I figured out it was something to do with the battery connection. But all I did achieved nothing, the sun was down by now, but here comes a car flying down the road. Our savior. This new guy got the car going but we decided that we should go with this new guy for his car was in good running order. After 30 minutes of talking we all piled into this new car and headed for the border. The owner of the broken down car, now running, would have to slowly make his way to Mark’s village. That if he makes it at all…

            All the roads out here are rough dirt roads; during the rains no one even travels these roads. We reach the boarder around 10 pm. There is a pole across the small road, a police officer allows us into Tanzania. Into the little house to get our passports stamped. They say we cannot stamp your passport we are only police, you will have to go to the next village which is about 100km away to the immigration office. “Are you sure we can go in without a stamp?” I asked, “No problem,” they replied.

We quickly drank a cup of tea in the little sleeping town and on the road again. It was midnight now and we arrive just outside of Mark’s village. The main road does not go through the village so we walked about 1 mile or so to reach Mark’s house through the bush. The night air was cold, millions of stars shining in all their glory. We could hear a few hyenas in the hills. As we walked Mark began to talk about the three lions that came last year to take a cow. These lions came around each day for three days waiting their chance to take a few cows. Mark and his brother were sitting having tea and they looked at each other and could hear them in the bush, they said that is enough. They each grabbed their mkuki, or spear, and clubs and off they went. Two Masai verses three lions, that sounds like good odds to me. After killing two lions the third ran away.

Then Mark continues to tell us that one of the ways that Masai show their bravery is to cut the tail off an adult elephant. He said this is the ultimate challenge. Killing a lion is for small boys - but elephants…. For lions are all left “handed” meaning that all its striking power is in that front left leg so if you can take out that foot with the first spear, the rest is “easy”. 

All I could do is agree, what else should I do? My own mind flashed back when I was charged by a lion, I was trying to think about the front left leg but all I knew then was to stay calm and shoot if necessary. This male lion stopped just a few meters away from us and turned and walked away. I don’t think I wet my pants that day, well maybe just a little….

Mark shared his full experience of cutting the tail off an elephant and assured us he would never do it again, “Suicide,” he said. Mark has killed 5 lions thus far, mostly in protection of the cattle. When we were at Pastor Musa’s village one of the warriors was killed by a lion, it happens even to the Masai. Marks uncles leg (bottom half) was taken off by a lion when he was a young warrior. His uncle made a wooden stump and still goes on today. I will likely see him tomorrow; he lives next door to Mark.

            We made our way into Mark’s little house to find the bed. I could tell that Mark wanted to ask something but he was a bit embarrassed. “C’mon Mark spit it out,” Well Mark did not have a clue what I just said so I had to rephrase that sentence. Mark politely asks if I didn’t mind sharing a bed with Dr. Rick. It is either that or just sleeping on a cow hide on the floor, I chose the bed.  Dr. Rick and I smiled at each other and laid down some basic rules and we were off to bed!

I lost my leg to a lion

I am going for my first lion, or not....

Fuel by the bottle



What are we doing here again??

Mark's little house on the prairie

Day 8 with theMasai

#8 My week and a bit with the Masai

Day 8

            Today is marked day, an important day to the Masai. They come to this market from miles away. Many will walk easily 30km or about 20 miles to come. The life of the Masai is all focused on their livestock. Each animal plays an important role.

            At the market they bring their animals to sell or trade. It is mostly all done in auction style. It is amazing to me how they all know which animal is mine and which one is his.

            A goat or sheep will go for about $30-$50. Younger cows go for about $150-$200. A mature bull goes for around $500 and up. Even the cattle are survivors, it is a special breed.

The cow is life for the Masai; it is not only for the milk, meat, the skin, but it is their main source of income, it is their survival, it’s their very identity, their pride, their statement to other tribes, it is also relationship, the cattle brings prestige and power, a good name or a bad name.

            This is so important to understand when working with the Masai. We as outsiders just look at the cow as a cow and that is as far as it goes but if you are going to work among the Masai and do not acknowledge their highest value ‘the cow’; they will not respect you. So when preaching or teaching I will always try to bring up this value ‘the cow’ and incorporate it. The whole entire life of the Masai is valued around the cow. Often the older boys will be out with the cattle for a whole year before coming home.

            The sad part is that this value or very strength of the Masai ‘the cow’ is also a big weakness for them. Difficult to understand but the cow is more valued than their own children. (Boys become valued around age 12-15, girls become valued around age 8-12, more on this later.) The men value the cow more than his wife or wives, the women struggle very much with this of course because they are forced somehow according to culture and tradition to value the cow more than their own children. The cow is valued more than education, even the health of family.

            Now bringing in the gospel is crucial to understanding this value. I heard a Masai chief say that he had a hard time excepting the white man’s religion called Christianity because their God does not have room for the cow.

 Let’s look at my good friend Mark. When he sold one or two of his cows to build his church he was ridiculed, mocked and lots of shame was spoken to him by the whole community. But year after year Mark has held strong, he has started three churches now out of his own small herd. He sells at least one cow every year to help support the conferences that we started 6 years ago. Witchdoctors have tried to put spells over Mark but he stands strong. Mark has a strong faith, a deep conviction in his spirit and a strong love and vision for his people. He is looking for motorcycle now to take him around all his ministry points. If you are interested in supporting Mark please get in touch.

            Meanwhile back at the ranch these cows are getting restless because our driver is still not here. I can see in Dr. Rick’s eyes from time to time that we need to ditch this guy. The problem is this is like the only vehicle around for hundreds of miles so we are at the mercy of this vehicle.

            The market was full of Masai, imagine that. They came in all shapes and colours. Out here in the rural areas they are all thin and fit. Many of the men are tall and fair looking. It is very common that the men wear ear rings. Some times their ears hang so low that they can actually tie them in a knot. I saw a guy once with a small plastic container in his ear, maybe he kept his tobacco in it.

            Oh yes I forgot to mention that we did get yet another flat tire on the way here to the market. This guy needs some new tires.

Dr. Rick was busy pulling out teeth so he did not get much time to walk around the market. I enjoy walking around and watching everything and see how it all works. The Masai on the outside can look to be a simple people but the opposite is quite true. Their culture is deep with tradition, beliefs, and certain ethical behavior must be followed.  It is very complicated really. There are about 7 stages that each Masai goes through in life starting at a young age. Stages for girls are different for the boys. I don’t know but the Masai know which girls are married or not by the types of beads they wear. When a woman is pregnant she wears something different, if she is the 1^st or 2^nd wife it is something different again, it just goes on and on. It may be a bit of a boring thing for you but I find it all fascinating learning to understand so I can in turn help them understand. It often takes an outsider to actually show you your own worldview and mindset.

            As we headed back to Pastor Musa’s house about an hour's drive we saw zebra and wildebeests’ grazing on the open plains. When I am out here like this I wonder why in the world do I live in Kabwe town, the beauty out here is just fantastic. Anyway I hope to get home without a flat, we have no spares and then we have to take the whole tire apart out here and this is not fun.

            Actually we passed a witchdoctors house on the way here this morning, he has 39 wives. A powerful man in the spirit world and has lots of respect and feared by the community. The community got together a few weeks ago and sacrificed 49 cows to honor him and thank him for all he has done. They also know that this gives him more authority in the spirit world over the life of the community. Hard to explain all this but when one’s eyes are open the spirit world is very much alive. Talk about a book. I have seen and heard stuff here that challenges the best of us.

When we met this man he was sitting talking with some of the community elders, I greeted him in Swahili. As we drove off I encouraged Pastor Musa and James to invite him over for tea some time and build a relationship with him. With a bit reluctance and fear they agreed, although Mark was all up for it, but Mark lives quite far from here in Tanzania, we shall go to his place tomorrow.

            This evening we are off to pastor James’ house. He lives high up in the hills, we look forward to it.

Karibuni – Welcome

# 7 Masai Journal

My Filson jacket in Masai land

Masai drinking water

#7 My week and a bit with the Masai

Day 7 - Tuesday

            I was up early and into the bush. I love the bush, not just for hunting but also to hear the bird life and enjoy the beauty of nature. Pastor Musa’s house is located just under a ridge, so the clouds were still sitting on top the ridge. It is cold here in Masai land this time of year. Thanks to my good friend John in Seattle area, he bought me a ‘Filson’ jacket. Might as well have the best, is what they say. It’s the kind tough guys wear. Thanks, John!

            After some chapatis and some chai we were off. Well, we were supposed to be off, but we had to wait for the driver again. He has had two more flats since yesterday. This guy I am not too sure about. Our patience is running a bit thin with him.   

At the clinic the line is long already. People have come a long way. When a tooth is in pain your whole life is just not fun. Some have been in pain for months perhaps years. In the rural areas of Africa there is only one dentist to every 150,000 people, I think it is something like one dentist for every 2,000 in the States.

It is not uncommon for Masai women to have their front two teeth taken out as a sign of beauty. Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder, as they say. Mark’s mother had her front top two taken out when she was just a girl. Mark’s front bottom two teeth were taken out when he was just 6 years old. It is a belief that if your child get this certain disease that the mouth will close, so these teeth are taken out so that at least you can get food into the mouth. My teeth are not very good but I still have all mine; thanks to Dr. Rick!

I have done my duty this morning and helped Dr. Rick get set up; it is also my job to take some pictures of Dr. Rick at work. The plan today was to start our seminar at 9 am. But well, no one is here yet, it wasn’t till 11 that people started showing up. Time is always coming, right?

Today was a day of challenges, encouraging the pastors to create investors in their church and not just consumers or church goers. Most Africans have become consumers thanks to all the hand-outs that are given from the West; from the government to the church we are guilty of this.

This is the one of the first things I look for when I am in a group, who are the investors; and it is with these that I spend my energy. I have spent years investing in consumers and the fruit has proven to be very little. Even Jesus when he chose his 12 disciples; they were all doing something before he called them out. I actually wrote a list of all those I work with and even relate with, which ones are consumers and which are the investors. This has helped me so much to see where most of my time was being spent. That list has helped to prioritize my own time of investment with others. I still ‘love’ everyone but purpose my time differently.

A question that generally always comes up in a group of pastors here, as it did today is about polygamy. Having more than one wife, is this ok, is it a sin, what do we do as pastors if a member has more than one wife? I often will introduce myself letting everyone know that I have only one wife, I get a lot of laughs because there are many men in the church that will have up to four wives. My father knew of a man in Liberia where I lived as a kid, this man had 32 wives and like over a 100 children. I can’t even remember my own 4 girls’ names much-less 100.

My counsel is that it is not a sin, but it is better to be a man of one wife, you find it throughout the bible. No, do not divorce any of your wives, keep them all. Treat them right etc and no, it is better that you do not be a pastor of a church and so on. A lot of the counsel that pastors get from Westerners is that if you have wives, divorce all but the first. This has brought a lot of confusion in the rural churches of Africa. Now you have wives with no husbands and kids with no fathers. Who is going to take care of them? The best is for the husbands to love their wives and kids and take care of them. Anyway, this is a big thing here among the Masai. Mark’s mother is the first of four wives.

The first wife is always the first lady of the boma or home. She is the boss. It is not uncommon to have a 50 year old wife and a 18 year old wife. Each wife has her own house that she is responsible to build. Her house is often round and has a round top. There is only one tiny window or hole about the size of a tennis ball. Inside it is all black with years of smoke. There is small room where the baby goats etc stay, then you go into the bigger room where most of life takes place. Here is where most of the cooking takes place and the only light comes from the small fire. The mattress is but a cow hide that is laid on top of a bed frame made of sticks.  All the kids sleep on one side of the fire and mom and baby sleeps on the other.

The husband then stays in his own house, it is generally a square house and he often is the one that builds his own house. His house is made of mud while her house is made of cow dung. You may think that this is unfair but it is the cow dung house that generally lasts longer. There is no smell and easy to patch since all the cows are home for the night. Your building material is just there in the stall.                         ______________________________________

            Back at the clinic Dr. Rick is having a blast, he has not been feeling so good today, but he is pushing on. I know that he has been keeping his own journal; I have no idea what he writes about. I am sure my name has and will appear a time or two, not sure if that is a good thing or bad thing. Maybe I will sneak his journal into my room and read it through with my new termite friends….

             The night air is colder tonight with a small rain shower. Speaking of showers we actually got warm water and took a cup bath. I have been able to take a bath with three cups of water, four is always better. It is an art. You should try it just for fun. It is amazing on how little a person can manage on. The Masai do not take baths very often mostly due to the distance of the waterhole. Once a week, once a month, even once a year. One thing is that they do wear clean clothes, these they wash regularly. So we have been treated well here. It is a lot of work for this household to have these wazungu (white) guys here. Again thanks to Dr. Rick, we get very special treatment.

            In all this day was great, we had our dinner in the next boma across the way. Had a full spread. All too good. Tomorrow we go to the local Masai market, we will do a clinic there as well.

Tutaonana kesho – See you tomorrow